lunes, 24 de enero de 2011

Fragances from perfumer Adelfo Enriquez,

The scent is a sublime and magical formula, capable of attracting the attention of people of all ages and love to smell most callous, says the Mexican perfumer Adelfo Enriquez, in a recent visit to the island

Enriquez-Founder of the International Zermat company and a chemical engineer by profession for 25 years, says it was the magic that led him to the exquisite world of fragrances when you just finished their studies. So do not hesitate to take a plane and leave their homeland to travel to Switzerland in search of suitable training.

"The training was smelling raw materials which are manufactured perfumes, but by group. First it was all woods, flowers, fruits, and then aromatic chemical materials are synthetic. Since then I learned to combine them so that harmony and that did not generate a glut of aromas, "he recalls.

The expert notes that a perfumer must have creativity and compares it to an artist because, having different elements as raw material, began to unite to make his masterpiece.

Development

To make a perfume used about a hundred different raw materials such as flowers, woods, spices, herbs, animal and synthetic notes. A perfume is in his laboratory over a thousand raw materials and, depending on the type, are the ingredients you use. These materials are grouped under concepts, bodies of wood, spices, marine notes, citrus or floral. Generally, the citrus notes are more casual and fun.

The perfumes have three notes: the output, the mean and the background. This shout-out is the first impression and lasts five minutes.

"It's the first impact. They are the nicest ingredients such as flowers and fruits and citrus. Citrus is very volatile and that helps the perfume to impact favorably. For men are used aromatic notes. For a sensual woman used species warmer and cooler if they are for an elegant woman, "he says.

The middle note is the distinctive part of the perfume, which gives the character, says Enriquez. Usually if a woman's perfume this part should be more floral. There are over 100 types of flowers that can be used in perfumery. Then, the perfumer has to select the flowers according to the concept he wants to pitch. Once you have a floral bouquet to woman or man woody for it, adding other ingredients to make it more exquisite, or more distinctive personality.

The bottom notes are those that help the fragrance last longer on the skin. Usually it is used woods, resins, mosses, marine notes and heavy species, among other ingredients.

In the total production of a perfume can invest millions of dollars, it all depends on the projection of sales by the company.

Another important factor is the weather. Warmer weather requires more firmly because you sweat more and it is important to increase the concentration of the essence or structure with more clips.

"I recommend increasing the concentration so that the perfume does not lose its delicacy, because if they put a lot of the perfume base notes lost joy and elegance," he says.

Before going to market can make an average of 20 tests, although there are companies that can do 100 to everyone is satisfied, said the perfumer.

"Today it is widely used tool market assessments, develop small panels that make a shortlist and the final must be the taste of the marketing people and for particular mine, as perfumers. Finally you have to give that final touch is the company. When reputable companies usually take two years to prepare. Still others take a year, "he adds.

Different flavors

Enriquez notes that the same perfume does not smell the same in all people, as the skin of each one has its own aroma depending on age, health, mood, feeding habits, smoking or not and if you have any chronic disease.

"Each skin has a pH, which is the degree of acidity. Then the higher acidity in the skin, the greater the odor. The healthier the person, the rich smells. By combining the perfume with the smell of the skin, is expressed differently and you can smell that perfume perfume in the same two people and be totally different, "he explains.

For those looking for the perfume stay longer in the skin, the expert recommended a scented in layers, using soap, body lotion and deodorant with the same aroma.

"It's a way to harmonize your body with the scent of perfume, because if you have a deodorant that smells a lot of wood and put on a floral perfume your body is expelling two different aromas and confused to who you approach," he says.

Among the fashion aromas, Enriquez notes that still dominate the floral-fruit. But next year will begin to feature more prominently chypre notes of woods and nature.

"It reflects what is happening globally, because there is a need for people to stick to nature and that is what they are doing up in fragrances," he explains.
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