Also known as Cétalox or Ambrox, Ambroxan was developed by Firmenich in the 1950s to replace Ambergris (a rare secretion of whales). It is usually used as a back note in fragrance composition, thanks to its musky/woody/animal tonalities. As a raw material, it commands a premium price point, of around €500 per kilo.
“If my different creations had one thing in common, it would be the presence of an ingredient I am particularly fond of,” noted Ricci. “Overdosed in Lady Vengeance and Calamity J, more discreet in Miss Charming and Citizen Queen, I use it regularly to bring elegance to my creations because of its unique and inimitable woody, musky finesse.”
He added: “This time, I have created a perfume out of this one ingredient. A perfume that won’t be one in the conventional sense of the term.”
As the fragrance composition is molecular and contains only one ingredient, it is hypo-allergenic, making it suitable for even sensitive skin. The light nature of the juice also means it is likely to appeal to Asian markets, where consumers tend not to favour heavy scents.
Speaking to The Moodie Report at last week’s TFWA World Exhibition in Cannes, Ricci noted: “This is very different from my previous creations, which were quite intense. This fragrance is light, pure, elegant and clean – it’s woody yet fresh.”
He added: “I call it a 3-D fragrance, because you don’t smell it when you have your nose on it, but it has a volume. It is a simple, minimalist creation that really adapts to each individual’s skin.” http://buscatuperfume.blogspot.com/
Not A Perfume is on-counter now in selected domestic doors, and will be rolled out in travel retail between now and spring 2011. It will be available as a 50ml and 100ml edp, priced domestically at around €65 and €88, respectively.
Juliette Has A Gun also previewed its upscale new candle line at Cannes. The avant-garde collection features names such as Mary Jane and Marilyn. Each offers a minimum of 50 hours’ burn time, and will retail domestically at around €49.
For more information, visit www.juliettehasagun.com
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